The 4×4’ main tent is powered by a 630w CMH light and the 1×4’ two-tiered tent extension is built out with two 4-bulb t5 fluorescent light fixtures. Complete with four fans, two dual outlet timers, and adjustable intake/exhaust components, this 80” tent supports even the most ambitious of grows.
The 6” exhaust kit may either be fastened on the top of the left tent or on the bottom-right, each option directing air through the carbon filter and out of the top port. This room receives two 6” clip-on fans—the first will be fastened to the top-right support beam of the tent to help move warm air towards the exhaust. The second fan can be placed on the back-left corner to follow the canopy as it rises.
The “Standard Grow” is designed to be a fully comprehensive cannabis cultivation and propagation system, offering an all-inclusive perpetual grow space packed into a 4×5’ build. For just under $1,000, you get a 3-chambered, 3-light tent with a full air filtration system, automation and metering included.
All of the hardware used for each project can be ordered online or bought at a local hardware store or grow shop.
This guide will show you how to build three different indoor cannabis garden setups at three different price points. Each build below contains all necessary components needed to create a simple, climate-controlled grow for your weed plants.
In this indoor grow setup, 2 to 4 cannabis plants are recommended. You can squeeze in 6 plants if you grow small auto-flowering varieties and/or vegetate the plants for less time.
With the tent height maxing out at 48”, plants grown in this space should not exceed 24” in height and we recommend using dwarf, indica, and auto-flowering varieties for best results.
For growers who want a full system capable of germinating seedlings, taking and keeping clones, maintaining mother plants, and have multiple chambers for various projects, this is the build for you.
This build is a perfect fit for a small room or garage space. At 64” tall, the tent affords enough room to propagate most smaller, bushier cultivars. There is a canopy height limit of between 35” and 42”.
First-time growers, budget growers, and those who wish to keep their garden as inconspicuous as possible are a good fit for the Nano Grow, as it is a basic grow setup. At 24”x 24”, this tent is small enough to fit in most closets.
The Nano Grow is designed to be the most budget friendly and least technical design. This build focuses on trimming down the necessary components to eliminate any superfluous items. While the essentials will cost you just under $120, you can add an optional inline fan and thermometer/hydrometer for just a bit more.
LED lights work well in this environment because they produce very little heat. Although filtration for a grow of this size is not necessary, those who wish to grow in a more confined space should consider opting for the intake fan and thermometer/hydrometer. This will help to both increase air circulation and provide some fundamental metrics for maintaining a healthy environment for the plants.
The Micro Grow is a value-driven package designed to provide all of the essentials for a single tent grow. More advanced than the Nano Grow, it’s a complete system that can handle just about any cannabis growing style.
Total cost: $466.
Setting up an indoor weed grow in your home is a lot easier than you may think. You will need to invest some time and money into an indoor grow, but acquiring materials and building it out doesn’t require a lot of skill and can be done cheaply.
However, this system tends to run hot and will need the open air of a large room or garage to function optimally.
Unlike the Nano Grow, this build contains a complete ventilation system designed to filter and exhaust hot air while simultaneously bringing in clean, cool air. Additionally, the timer has been upgraded to the dual-outlet digital model for controlling both the light and carbon filter exhaust system. A variable speed vent fan controller is also added for maximum climate control.
Total cost: $938.
Total cost: $117-147.
No matter what your legal plant limit is, this tent should be able to handle it. At 80” for the main grow chamber, height is not a problem, and just about any cultivar can be propagated successfully under this build. With a 630w 3100k CMH fixture, this room can be used for both vegetative and flowering stages.
With this system, cool air will enter through the bottom of the tent, and warm air will be scrubbed as it leaves the top of the tent. The 6” clip-on fan should be placed just above canopy level on the back-left pole to help circulate air evenly as the plants mature.
Note: Product prices below may fluctuate slightly over time.
Who should use this build?
The Standard Grow offers a complete package for growers who wish to maintain a perpetual cultivation operation year-round. It covers all of the essentials in housing, lighting, automation, and filtration for a standard home grow.
With the 315w CMH (ceramic metal halide) lights, enough heat is generated to recommend this build for an open space to allow for the best possible air circulation through the tent. The included 3100k bulb allows you to use the tent for both vegetative and flowering cycles.
This build allows growers to cultivate at multiple stages in the plant’s life cycle as well as provide housing for multiple propagation projects.
For the second room, a 6” clip-on fan is fastened to the back-left support beam of each tier to direct airflow throughout each small chamber.
Cooling fans (x2)
Materials will depend on what size you want the box to be. In this case, the box was 33″ tall x 18.5″ wide x 18″ deep to house starter plants and those that will reach a max height of about 24″. Of course, if you wish to build bigger, add to the below supplies. No special tools needed, just a drill, circular saw, knife, square, and a tape measure. A multi-meter would be helpful if your kind of new to electrical stuff.
Using whatever you determine is best or you happen to have around the house, now is a good time to add it. I used some Underfloor Heating Foil I had and applied it everywhere I could to contain heat, reflect light, and seal up the inside of the box from moisture. Eventually I ran out and used Aluminum Foil for the inside of the door.
Step 1: Materials.
Actually, this was not as hard as some may think.
Total cost was minimal as the most expensive single part was the cooling fans and thermostat and I think I got them on sale for about $35. The rest for the most part was salvaged parts from prior projects around the house. However, if bought new I would estimate about $50 total cost.
The front contained the door so one single cut along the top, added the hinges, and door done.
Underfloor Heating Foil / Foil Tape / Simply Aluminum Foil.
Electrical Wire 3 prong (I used one from an old appliance I had but I am sure Lowes has them cheap)
24″ Green/White 14 Guage Electrical Wire.
Step 2: Step Two: Frame It Out.
For the fans, I used some common fans used in entertainment centers to keep ones X-Box and such cool. I bought a kit with two fans and one thermostat that I could program to come on and shut off at predetermined temperatures. The particular kit I used was simply a plug and play using a USB with no wiring required but I did find out the wires ran a little short thus some wires are seen inside of the box when my original plan was to run all wires on the outside.
Common 1/4 plywood (1 x sheet)
Depening on how big you want it, frame out a cube basically. I braced up the corners to prevent any swaying when moving.
Simple enough, how ever big the fans are make a round hole on the bottom back corner of one side about 6″ from the bottom to serve as the cool air intake. Create the second hole in the opposite side in the top front of the box to serve as the warm air exhaust.
Step 6: Step Six: Sand/Stain.
1″ x 2″ x 6′ (1) not needed but I did use it to cover seams between cuts like on top and above the door.
Box 2, Junction Box and Power Supply: All wires centralized here and this is where I hooked up the power cable.
about 8′ of 1″ x 2″ for the basic frame.
Wire nuts, a couple.
As the first attempt, some corners were cut and I think now I would use LED red/blue lights instead of the HE lights I happen to have had around the house. The lights I used did fit into an acceptable light spectrum and only used a total of 45w when on but working out the kinks on that part now.
Once you’ve got your structure built, you’ll need to pick a light. LED grow lights have gone through huge technological improvements over the past few years, and buying a quality high-powered, full-spectrum light is cheaper than ever. Just make sure that the unit you choose has the proper dimensions to fit within the space of your shelving rack.
The first step to assemble your grow tent is putting together your frame, or in our case, the wire shelving rack. Once you’ve put in a top shelf to hang your lights from and a bottom shelf to hold your plant(s), use zip ties or a wire hanging kit to string your light below your highest shelf. Zip tie and duct tape your wires and timer along the frame of the rack. Set up your fans to circulate the air and push any heat generated by the lights towards the top of your shelving.
To recap, here’s a checklist of everything you’ll need for your DIY grow tent:
Just because your apartment doesn’t have the same acreage as a farm in the Emerald Triangle doesn’t mean you can’t grow your own ganja. In fact, with just a few trips to your local hardware and garden supply store and some simple assembly, you can construct a DIY grow tent and produce your own weed year-round.
Indoor growing is all about creating a micro-environment for your plants. Photo by: Gina Coleman/Weedmaps.
To keep the light focused and reflected as much as possible onto your plants, the next thing you need is the “tent” part of your grow tent. Using a material that is bright and reflective on the inside and black on the outside will properly direct the light onto your plants while ensuring that no light leaks out. This kind of rack wrap can be built on the cheap using reflective space blankets and layers of black trash bags. For just a little more money, we recommend investing in black and white panda film or one-sided mylar wrap.
Thanks to the legalization green rush, the cannabis grow industry is thriving. That means that there are plenty of relatively cheap pre-built grow tents available if you don’t have the time or energy to make one yourself. If you’re committed to a DIY grow tent, though, the first step to sorting out your material list is deciding on a frame and size.
That’s where a grow tent comes into play. Technically, you don’t need a grow tent to start an indoor plot, but unless you have access to a commercial grow warehouse, odds are your basement, garage, or closet is not a perfect set up for cultivation. Indoor growing is all about creating a micro-environment for your plants. By constructing an enclosed space, you can maximize light coverage, keep out pests and debri, filter air, and moderate temperature and humidity.
If you’re going to grow weed inside, you’ll need some light. After all, the whole design of indoor cultivation is meant to replicate and improve on the benefits of natural sunlight. And while outdoor plants are beloved for, well, growing like weeds, the main benefit of an indoor grow is the ability to control every single aspect of the plant’s environment.
You’ll also need one or two small fans (clip-ons work well), a ventilation fan, a short length of ventilation ducting, a bunch of zip ties, a few rolls of duct tape and a couple of magnetic or velcro strips, and an automatic timer for your lights. Of course, you’ll also need cannabis plants and the hydroponic set-up or living soil they will grow in, but that’s a whole different list of steps, supplies, and decisions.
The next step is setting up your ventilation system. To ensure proper ventilation, cut a hole in the top quadrant or roof of your tent and connect your ducting to the exhaust fan and make sure you can funnel the forced air either outside or into an attic or basement to keep the eventual odor down. If you’re really worried about the smell of your indoor grow, install a carbon filter in the middle of the exhaust set-up. If you want to get fancy, set up a thermometer, humidifier, and dehumidifier in your grow tent for peak environmental control.
Once your shelving, lights, and wiring is all good to go, pull out your panda film or mylar and start wrapping the rack to create your tent. Because the tent is made to keep all of your light inside, reflecting, and focused on your plant, make sure that there are no light leaks and that your chosen wrap creates a floor and a roof to completely encase the structure. Leave one side of your box open and create a door using more of your chosen tape and with a pair of velcro or magnetic adhesive strips. You’ll need to access the inside of the tent to water and feed your plant(s), adjust the light height, and eventually, harvest your buds, so making sure your door is both accessible and light-sealed is important.
Traditionally, the structural bones of a grow tent were made out of PVC pipe or wood. For the construction novice though, using a ready-made wire rack for your grow tent frame is by far the easiest option. The removable, adjustable shelving units will allow you to easily hang lights, fans, and hold your plants without building a micro-ballast or custom shelves. A standard 36” x 12” x 54” shelving unit is perfect for housing 1-2 plants, while a wider 36” x 24” x 54” rack could potentially fit 3-4 small pots.
America’s move towards cannabis legalization has come with plenty of upsides, but if you ask us, the proliferation of homegrown weed is near the top of the list. As more states enact legalization laws that welcome personal pot farming, geography, weather, and residential restrictions are moving many prospective home growers out of the garden and into the garage, basement, or closet.
What material do you need for a DIY grow tent?
With all of that gear in place, pick your favorite seeds or clone, sit back, and watch your new garden grow.